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We have seen everything from one strip of tape on a blade, to duct tape
wrapped all the way from the butt end to the toe of the blade. Pretty
pathetic!
Today, there are many different options. For instance, you have white
tape, black tape, every colored tape, and even friction tape. Many instructors
say the tacky surface of friction tape helps with puck control. Offensive
veterans feel black tape hides the puck from the goalie. Some defensemen
and goalies claim white tape blends in with the ice and boards. As old
school grinders we scrum with the traditional white tape. We don't even
consider colors on our sticks!
From what we have seen, this is the most common
way to tape a stick:
Step 1: Tear off a piece of tape about 8" long. Attach it to the bottom of the blade. Press down firmly on it so that it sticks to both sides of the stick. This strip will serve as added protection at the point of greatest contact between the ice and blade.
Note: If you use Howies Hockey Tape this additional strip of tape is unnecessary. Our tape will hold up to any wear and tear you can dish out.
Step 2: Begin wrapping the blade from the heel. Apply your tape tightly and avoid any wrinkles. How far apart each revolution is placed is up to you. By placing the intervals close to each other you get lots of cushion. If you like a firm surface spread the tape out.
You should end the tape job about a 1/2 inch from the toe. Always place the end of the tape on the backhand side.
Step 3: Press down on the tape to make sure that it sticks firmly. To do this use a puck, or any other hard object.
When you are finished taping, Dr. Steel has a helpful hint.
Most hockey tapes will not withstand the moisture from the ice. Water
breaks down your hockey tape and can harm your blade. He suggests waxing
both sides and the bottom of your blade after each tape job. Most generic
wax will work. This helps repel most of the water and your tape will last
longer.
Note: If you use Howies Hockey Tape wax is optional. Our tape has all the water resistance you will need.
Here is a suggestion from Paul Rock of Columbus, Ohio:
"Being retired from the United States Air Force and having to shine many a shoe I remembered that when I would get a new issue or a special occasion I would rub on the polish, take a cigarette lighter and melt the shoe wax into the leather. This would not only waterproof the leather but give me a great shine as an end result.....I put this theory to the stick after waxing it. Not only does the wax melt into the tape, it will last about 3 times longer. A heating gun will work fine also".
Here is a good suggestion from Jim Seidel of Troy, Michigan.
You state that you should start at the heel of the stick. I have always started at the toe of the stick for a very good reason. The edges of the overlapped tape cause the puck to "chatter" as you shoot giving less control. Just my opinion.
His method is definitely worth a try. I didn't like the feel as I pulled the puck back to me. Taping toe to heel demands a tape that seals well. The "overlap edge" traps moisture.
John Celeski of Minneapolis agrees with the heel to toe method:
Stick taping should be done heel to toe. As the tape curls on the overlap, it helps put the desired spin on the puck. Most Pros will retape their sticks 2-3 times per game.